July 18, Day 47: Buckhorn to Hindman (46.5 miles)

20110720-045816.jpg
The primitive campsites had a lot of shade and were next to a stream you could only hear. We slept through the alarm and didn’t get out until 9:30. We decided to have a short day and go to Hindman instead of Breaks in Virginia.

20110720-104224.jpg20110720-104241.jpg20110720-104313.jpg20110720-104336.jpg
We stopped in a little area called Chavies for a snack (I am now all about Southern Belle chocolate whole milk)

20110720-104525.jpg20110720-104601.jpg
Highway 15 and later 80 — THE worse roads of the the trip. Coal trucks, debris in the shoulder, and later crazy rumble strips… in the shoulder.

20110720-104859.jpg20110720-104915.jpg
At the top of a hill near Daniel Boone Parkway we stopped to call the cyclist-only place we were going to stay at in Hindman. As we were standing there this guy does a U-turn to talk to us. It turns out he has been seeing cyclists for years and always wanted to talk to some, wondering what the hell they were doing. “I see some guys on bikes looking kinda rough and I wonder what their story is.” So funny. We had a lovely cultural exchange and Matt even recommended him an opera piece he might enjoy. Nice meeting you, Ray! (While I was on the phone, David asked if we were talking to a mountain person, haha).

20110720-105705.jpg
Anyway, continuing on the shitty 80. Dodge Neons and whatnot whizzing by. We then realized we only had 23 miles to Hindman, not 43. Oops, well, that made today shorter than we had thought.

20110720-105810.jpg20110720-105835.jpg
Finally turned onto the 550, a small curvy road. Ahhhhh

20110720-110139.jpg
After being chased by some little dogs that ran down a cliff, Matt got a flat.

20110720-110239.jpg20110720-110251.jpg20110720-110423.jpg20110720-110447.jpg
Coming into Hindman.

Once in town we stopped in at the Appalachian Artisan Center to ask for directions. We’re glad we did.

20110720-110530.jpg20110720-110541.jpg
Debbie makes beautiful walking sticks.

20110720-110554.jpg
Mike weaving a new seat on an old chair. He also makes spoons out of reclaimed old wood.

20110720-110609.jpg20110720-110633.jpg
Richard’s bowls.

20110720-111249.jpg20110720-111303.jpg20110720-111313.jpg
Richard gave us a demo and made this wine stopper for us. Well, he made it for us then awkwardly decided to keep it for himself.

20110720-111442.jpg
And then he started working on this bench.

20110720-111530.jpg
Our destination of the day was right around the corner (and up a long ~40% grade driveway). Knott County Historical Society, founded by David Smith. He has been putting up cyclists in the home his great-grandfather built since 1996.

20110720-112144.jpg
Cyclists are greeted with a glass of Earl Grey iced tea with lemon and mint. Yessss.

20110720-112357.jpg
And a bunch of cats. He swears only one of them is his.

20110720-112448.jpg

20110720-112502.jpg
AND kittens?!

20110720-112553.jpg
David made us baked potatoes.

20110720-112719.jpg

20110720-112747.jpg
We were hungry so we also ordered a large pizza.

20110720-112825.jpg
One free beer also included in the $25/night.

20110720-112931.jpg
And a banana split. And you get your laundry done while you’re eating it.

20110720-113032.jpg

20110720-113042.jpg
The cats get the leftovers. “The black one is Weenie, short for Halloween cat.” Later, the regulars showed up: a raccoon and a gray fox. We missed the albino possum.

20110720-113156.jpg
David also provides you with a nightcap of brandy. We also got to taste some real good moonshine that he bought from an Alzheimer patient.

Later we retired to his gigantic pre-set up outdoor tent. Musty, but we were content. Any cyclist doing the TransAm or going through Kentucky should make it a point to stay with David. He is truly a knowledgeable and quirky character worth meeting.

Our favorite quotes:
“Those people at Sebree, they haven’t been putting up cyclist as long as they tell you. They are just trying to get some souls.”
“I just about saturated the cat market here.”
“Mountain people are just so damn unreasonable. You just can’t reason with the irrational!”

Advertisements

2 comments


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s